Vol. 3: No. 141 − August 11, 2010
Annals of Ice cream
The New York Times Dining section last week had two interesting articles on ice cream, a popular seasonal topic. The first lamented the tremendous price rise of ice cream from artisanal producers. At the top of the list was two Grom geletarias in Manhattan which charge the equivalent of $150 per pound as sold by a small $5.25 scoop. The most expensive ice cream in the US, Grom has 20 stores in Italy whose corporate mission is said to be to recreate the traditional ice cream of the Turin region. The Company imports rare raw materials from around the world. We can hardly wait to try it. After not eating ice cream for a few weeks because of its unavailability in parts of Northern Ontario, a friend of ours who is addicted found when he resumes eating the normal Häagen Dazs, he comes down with an acute case of funny tummy. Of course that was likely the result of the considerable quantity consumed. We note however that Häagen Dazs has not yet brought into Canada its new Five series ice cream with only five natural ingredients. The second article in the Times is more instructive. The food writer Melissa Clark contends that she has recently tasted wonderful new ice creams which are made without a custard base and hence no eggs. This ice cream used to be called Philadelphia ice cream. It was largely phased out as cooks concentrated on perfecting the custard base. Clark says that provided the ingredients used are the freshest, ie, just-picked fruit, the result contradicts the general rule that higher levels of fat make all food taste better. The article recommends a mixture of 65% cream and 35% milk. To avoid the problem that the mixture freezes solid without a custard base, you should add a bit of alcohol or a liquid sweetener like honey or maple syrup. Also let it thaw for 30 minutes before serving. Clark says the result was incredible. The Chef comments that the best ice cream he ever ate was in a remote part of Italy in the mountains where no custard base was used and he never forgot how fresh it tasted. One of MIchael Pollan’s basic principles of good eating in his slim book Food Rules is “eat all the junk food you want as long as you cook it yourself.” So make your own no egg ice cream. It’s one of the few free passes from Pollan.
The season is accelerating, summer produce is ending and autumn produce is starting to appear
Chef Loseto reports from the Ontario Food Terminal that summer crops are ending early what with the extreme heat and rain. He was surprised at the number of autumn and winter fruits and vegetables which are being brought to market. He is beginning to work on switching menus as some of his summer staples like favas and apricots are done. He was shocked to find the first crop of brussel sprouts on sale since he associates their introduction as food for winter. He bought peas and plums which are going strong and thought this year’s crop of Ontario peaches was the best in many years. The heat and rain have also greatly helped Ontario strawberries to develop. They are big and sweet this year. There are some problems. Field peppers are just starting replacing really horrible hothouse peppers. Shopping at the Terminal is a bit hit or miss where excessive recent rain has meant that some crops like Italian cucumbers are not appearing regularly. This has forced the Chef to make many more visits than he ordinarily does. He notes a rising chorus of complaints from the farmers that they cannot make enough money to get by this year. Smaller producers are heading more and more to farmers markets where they can fetch prices of double or more for smaller quantities. Surprisingly, farmers report that demand for their crops from supermarkets is down this year. Are people switching to more processed food? Or are the farmers simply complaining as usual in a year where growing conditions have changed challenging their own ingenuity and skills. Romano beans are done. They usually end sometime in September. The Chef noted and highly recommends a considerable supply of BC cherries which were on sale. Concord grapes have arrived along with the first apples and pears. Zucchini flowers are available and the elderberry season has begun. Raspberries disappeared but will be returning soon. Chef Loseto reports that a wonderful and surprising find was Ontario okra which he thought was superb, He roasts, stir fries and grills it. Really nice wild Saskatchewan button chanterelle mushrooms have begun to arrive. BC morels are going strong but BC porcinis are over. We will soon be receiving our first shipments of NWT arctic char. The Chef plans to pan fry them and serve them with Israeli cous cous and a three carrot salad. He will also be experimenting with BC sea trout which looks like a small salmon and tastes similar to the char. Atlantic soft shell crabs are still available and wild bass from the Arctic is coming. Olliffe has begun to supply the Chef with Ontario aged striploin steaks from Norpac , a small Ontario packer which has very limited supply and an excellent record. Olliffe is likely the only store in Toronto which carries this meat on a regular basis. Their products are not only delicious but Oliiffe says that because they are dealing with a small producer, they can ensure that the quality of the product will be consistent – something that many butchers here find hard to achieve in the BBQ season when demand is so high. Norpac’s production method is distinguished by the very humane way they treat their animals. This results in less stress and a more tender and flavourful product. The Chef also recommends the Ontario rack of lamb together with Berkshire pork from Quebec. For this month’s Italian evening which we are doing in conjunction with Slowfood Toronto, we are using the very special Tamworth pork from Fred Demaartinez’s farm outside Stratford. See menu below. Desserts include a strawberry tasting which includes a gorgeous handmade jelly donut. We also offer a raspberry blackberry chocolate dessert.
2010 Ontario’s wine grapes crop hit “véraison”early – looking very promising
Véraison is a key stage where the grapes stop the growing phase and start ripening. Sugar concentrates, colour deepens, skins thicken and grape volume rises at this point. It is a clear cut marker of the season, easily distinguished by the colour change. Niagara grapes are all about two to three weeks ahead of schedule. It is a very good sign with Ontario’s cool climate (particularly for the reds) as it increases the chances that the grapes will be fully ripened before harvest (often forced by the first frosts). Southbrook’s Cabernet Franc in Beamsville, Niagara August 9th 2010: Hidden Bench’s Pinot Noir in Beamsville, Niagara August 11th 2010:
George stages Italian Night in conjunction with Slowfood Toronto
Featuring seasonal and sustainable items from Ontario but lovingly prepared in the Italian tradition. Paired with carefully selected local wines by Tawse in Niagara, a producer adopting the finest principles of traditional Italian winemaking emphasizing terroir, wood barriques, natural pure indigenous yeasts with no additives -100% pure natural wine The featured items for August will be: Tamworth Pork, Artichokes, Tomatoes & Peaches. Friday August 27th 7pm SHARP $75 pp + $55 pp for wine (optional) plus taxes and gratuity Antipasto Insalata di Calamari, coppa rasato, e' carciofi e' croccante Calamari Salad, Shaved Coppa, Crispy Artichoke Primo Lasagna bianca guanciale, e’ pescha arrostita White Lasagna, Pork Belly, Roasted Peach Secondo Porchetta, pomodoro al forno, e’ arancini di pancetta Roasted Pork, Baked Tomato, Pancetta Arancini Formaggio Robiola Rocchetta, gelatina di pescha e’ albicocca Robiola Rocchetta, Peach and Apricot Jam Dolce Pescha al forno, ricotta dolce e' pistacchio tostato Baked Peach, Sweet Ricotta, Toasted Pistachio Wines by Tawse Meat by Olliffe George Restaurant 416-863-6006
George’s Resident Sommelier on a Chilean fact-finding mission
Our sommelier, Ian Thresher, has been selected by Wines of Chile to represent the Ontario trade and is away for 10 days on an all-expense-paid-trip to Chile. We are looking forward to the new and delicious exclusive private order Chilean additions to our wine list. Details to follow when Ian returns in our next edition of Ecclesiastes 3.
Lunch with Michael Pollan and Simon Schama
Le Patron strongly urges you to read the Financial Times’ amusing report by Simon Schama on lunch with Michael Pollan in London. See http://www.ft.com/cms/s/2/728c6056-74e0-11df-aed7-00144feabdc0.html
Le patron
