Vol. 3: No. 102 − August 15, 2008

Hint of fall at the Food Terminal – but this year’s summer produce is better than last year

Chef Loseto spotted the first arrivals of fall this week at the Food Terminal – red romano beans, pumpkins and squash. While firmly turning his back on them, it was an ominous moment for him – a sign that summer will be ending soon.

Chef Loseto reports that we are in the prime season for nearly everything local. He bought superb blackberries, currants as well as everbearing strawberries which are back. There is a problem with raspberry availability because it has been too wet. There were lots of delicious wild blueberries on offer. We notice in Georgian Bay over the last two weeks that the taste of the wild blueberries improved substantially from somewhat bitter at the beginning of the season to decidedly sweet and mellow now as they ripened slowly this year. The wild Georgian Bay blackberries are just coming into season.

The Chef looked for field grown red peppers but they will not be available until next week; however, he bought field grown green peppers and eggplants which he thought were spectacular. He also bought zucchini but stayed away from this year’s crop of zucchini flowers which he thinks are thick and starchy, lacking flavour.

The rainy weather seems to be causing a problem for many farmers. Some of the regulars who sell herbs were not in attendance this week. Our favourite but grumpy tomato supplier sells out his small offering well before the Chef arrives at 6.30 am. The Chef notes that many farmers are leaving to return home much earlier than before.

The Ontario peaches and yellow plums are really good this year according to the Chef. Red plums are to arrive next week. Ontario cherries are finished. The Chef is pleased because while he was loyally buying them he really wanted to buy the Washington cherries which are much better this year than ours.

Cauliflower was particularly good but scarce. Of course, there is lots of wonderful Ontario corn around. We note that the best corn we have encountered this summer by far was pure white corn coming from Huron County. Ontario artichokes have started but were astronomically priced - $30 for a small case which compared to $10 for Californian artichokes. The Chef had words with the vendor who unsatisfactorily lowered the price to $20. Ontario arugula had gone missing. Last year it was abundant at this time.

Cape Breton chanterelles have arrived but the early ones are somewhat bitter and small resembling buttons. The Chef thinks they will improve with time. BC morels are still going strong.

Fresh 5 inch sardines are coming in from Portugal on Tuesdays and Thursdays. The Chef is serving them with corn gazpacho and olive rice paper summer roll. Another of his favourites on the menu is his Dungeness crab dish with cauliflower salsa verdi and hollandaise.

Chef Loseto is trying to obtain more Ontario kobe beef from Cumbrae's. He has been able to secure wild salmon from Alaska which he is serving with an almond crust and chanterelles pastina. It appears that the scarcity problems encountered with wild salmon further south in BC and Washington State have not been present in the Alaskan catch.

The Chef has returned to his Quebec pork supplier for pork tenderloin. He prefers the taste to the Ontario Berkshire supplier he has been using and believes it is more consistent.

New seasonal desserts of note are a blackberry and strawberry tart as well as roasted peach with chocolate brulé.

Graydon Carter’s new smash restaurant in New York seems to exclude women

In a fawning article in the New York Times this week, Graydon Carter’s new restaurant, the Waverley located in the Village is reviewed. The Waverley is apparently hugely popular with New York’s A list. Much is made of the strategy employed not to tell anyone that it has opened. This pretence has apparently gone on for two years and the Times calls it “mischevious”. What is odd is the huge colour photo of the Waverly’s serving staff. Not a woman among them although one fellow looks a bit androgynous. Does the New York A list not take to women waiters or is it Graydon one wonders?

A Super Tuscan with an interesting story arrives in Toronto

Our General Manager, Jimson Bienenstock, has located a rare treat which can be had at George by the glass. Few people here have heard of or tasted Il Carnasciale’s caberlot wine. An agronomist, Remigo Bordini, discovered in the 1960’s a mysterious and unique clone which appeared to be a genetic mutation of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot which he named Il Caberlot. He allowed the vines to be planted in only one acre of a Tuscan estate, Il Carnasciale. From the release of the first vintage in 1988, the wine has had a huge cult following in Europe.

It is a bit expensive but we are offering a 2005 by the glass to allow everyone a chance to see what it is all about. Surprisingly, it is ready to drink now. Jimson opines that it is remarkably deep and concentrated while remaining poised and balanced. He says it contains aromas of smoke, wood, hot stones and spicy black fruits. We thought it was wonderful.